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By studying the three photographs and following the assembly instruction, you should be able to assemble a building or building front of any design of your own choosing using Heritage Model products. Please also read the section on gluing before attempting assembly.

Photos 4 & 5 show the type of building that was assembled to illustrate the instruction sheet. The building is a free-standing four-sided rectangular structure that actually represents two separate businesses, although there is no interior wall separating the two “businesses”. Also note that one of business is three stories high while the other business is a two-story building.  Photo1 shows the two-story back of one of the businesses and it is seen again on the left side of Photo 5.

STEP #1: Construction of the building was begun by gluing together the brick walls that formed each two or three-story section of the building. See Photo 1. In the case of the two-story business that formed part of the overall building a brick mid-wall trim piece was also glued in between the brick walls forming the lower and upper stories of each side of the business. A carpenter’s square was used to endure that the walls glued together were indeed square. The silicone was allowed to cure overnight. The storefront on the fires floor of the tree-story building (seen on the left in Photo 4) was assembled separately and glued to the second and third storied above it in step #3.

STEP #2: Having already painted the windows, window sills and the door frames, these were glued into the appropriate openings in the brick walls. As the windows and door frames project beyond the back of the brick walls, small supports are needed to keep the walls off the table surface. Allow the silicone to set up (20 minutes).

STEP # 3:  The storefront on the first floor of the three-story building was glued to the upper two stories, again using silicone. As the depth of the storefront with its recessed entranceway was 3 ½”, the upper story brick walls had to be supported while the silicone cured. HINT: If you ordered your Heritage Models items directly from Heritage Models, the box that the items where shipped in is the correct height to support this step.

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Photo #4

Photo #5

Photo #6

STEP #4:  Now comes the time to glue the two and three-story sections of the building together that form the longer sides of the rectangular building. At the same time we glue a corner pilaster to one end of what will become each side of the rectangular building. As you may have noticed when you first examined the brick pilasters and brick corner pilasters, at 15” in length, they are taller than a two-story building. They were made to this length to provide wider modeling opportunities for the modeler. This means that they must be cut to the proper length using a razor saw. Two points to be aware of in measuring the pilasters for cutting:

a) The brick courses on pilasters should line up with the brick courses on the walls and

b) Bricks are always laid on an initial layer of grout – and the pilasters and walls have grout lines at their bases. Watch how you orient the pilasters with respect to the walls.

Save the cut-off pieces for Step #7. After cutting the pilasters, the two and three-story sections of the building were joined together by gluing in a brick pilaster. A carpenter’s square was used to endure that the groups of walls that were glued together were indeed square. Also, as mentioned earlier, a brick corner pilaster was glued to the right hand side of each side of the four sides that would form the completed building. The corner pilaster can be seen on the right hand side of the building front in Photo #4. The silicone was allowed to cure overnight. (STEPS 2,3 & 4 can normally be done on the same day, allowing 20 minutes for the silicone to set up between the steps).

STEP #5: Two sides of the rectangular building were glued together. A Carpenters square was again used to check for square of the two sides of the building. Clamps were used to hold the sides together while a third side of the rectangular building was added. Again, the building was checked for square and additional clamps were added to hold the third side to the other two sides. The sides of the building were clamped both towards the bottom edges of the building and towards the top edges of the building, as seen in PHOTO #5. The fourth side of the building was then added, checked for square and clamped in place. A final check for square was done by measuring the diagonal distance from corner to corner at the top of the building. The two measurements must be the same, or the building is not square (or rectangular, in the case of the building shown in the photos). This is an example where silicone excels as an adhesive as it is very easy to make the necessary readjustments to the square of the building and realign the clamps, without having to break and to re-glue the joints when you can CA or MEK glue. If you do not own bar clamps or pipe clamps as shown in PHOTO #5, do not despair as some other ways of clamping the walls together are outlined under Section #2: GLUEING.

Step #6: While they are not shown in the photographs, the two-story business will have a brick cornice added and this will surround the three sides of the top of that business, while the three-story business (a Hotel) will have a scratch-built special cornice on the top of the front of the business. To assemble the brick cornice for the two-story business, the individual cornices were initially mitered for the corners and cut to the appropriate length. Again, save the cut-off pieces for STEP #7.  Before each one was installed over its particular side of the business, a thin layer of spackle was applied to the mitered surface of the cornice to make an attractive corner joint. The cornices were then silicone in place atop each side of the two-story business. The cornices may be added on the same day as STEP #5. Allow the silicone to cure overnight.

STEP #7: To install a roof, the cut-off ends of the pilasters, corner pilasters and cornices that you were told to save earlier were glued inside the bottom edges of the cornices that you installed in STEP #6. These pieces will support the roof that you will presumably install. A sheet of wet/dry sandpaper glued to a sheet of styrene or wood cut to size works well to simulate tar and gravel roofing.

STEP # 8: A base for the building is not necessary, as the structural integrity of the building is guaranteed when silicone is used as the primary adhesive. However, you may want to add a ¼” thick sidewalk around the base of the building which will hide the lower gluing lip.


1) Silicone caulking (particularly in the tubes for pump action type applications) is a convenient, safe, low toxicity product that acts as an excellent, durable and long lasting glue. The pump action makes gluing easy and any excess silicone that squeezes out of gluing joints can be easily cleaned up when the silicone has completely cured (usually in 12 hours).  (NOTE: If the silicone caulking is accidentally smeared on a surface where it is not meant to be, it is generally better to immediately clean up the smear with a soft dry cloth rubbed vigorously over the spill. Otherwise, wait until the silicone has cured, use a knife to cut the excess silicone that has squeezed out of a joint, and pull the offending piece away). Because of the 12 hour curing time, I find that it is best to plan to put a building together over several days, allowing time for the silicone in the newly-glued sections of the building to cure before you add additional sections.

2) Silicone takes 20 minutes on average to set up, so when you are gluing several walls together to form an upright building, the use of a square and bar or pipe clamps (used in woodworking) is advised to hold the building together while the silicone sets up. If you do not have clamps, there are ways to get around this- make your own blocking system with scrap lumber and screws and mount the temporary lumber “square” to a base to which you can screw the lumber down. (Make sure the surfaces of the scrap lumber are indeed square). Another method, particularly useful around the upper story of the building where you may need to clamp the structure together, is to use 1 1/2” inch masking tape tightly wound around the upper story of a building. This will also pull the building together while the silicone sets up. If you do not have the ability to do any of this, do not despair. If you only tackle gluing one side of a building to another side at one time and allow the silicone to cure overnight before tackling adding a third side and so on, you should be okay. The key is to ensure that the sides of the building remain square while the silicone sets up. Another way to get around the lack of clamps is to use another adhesive, such as MEK, to initially tack the walls together. Follow this step by adding a bead of silicone caulking in the back of the glue joints.

3) Check that the wall panels that are glued together on a table top do not stick to the table top if any excess silicone seeps out. After the panels sit for five or ten minutes, slide the joined panels over the table top to ensure that this has not happened.

4) Clean any silicone on the working tabletop off immediately with a dry cloth, and if necessary, a scraper. Keep a wet cloth handy during gluing for clean-ups. Silicone on skin may be cleaned by initially wiping with a soft dry cloth followed by washing your hand thoroughly with soap and water. Always follow the manufacturers directions on the silicone caulking tube.


The acrylic plastics in which the walls and accessories are molded are easily machined using ordinary hand and power tools. PHOTO #6 shows a Dremel motor tool in its router base being used to create a doorway opening out of a window opening in a brick wall with two window openings (item #102). The bit in the motor tool is a high speed steel drum style cutter. The initial cuts were made using an electric jig saw. The project under construction is an Edwardian brick farmhouse and as the prototype for this project lacks pilasters at the corners, the brick walls have had their side gluing lips cut off and the edges of the walls mitered at a 45° angle. This work was done on a table saw, using a blade appropriate for cutting plastics. This work could also be done on a band saw.

Some other manufacturer’s windows and doors will fit the Heritage Models window and door openings in our brick walls. In some cases these windows must have .125” by .188”styrene strips glued into the window openings to support the windows, but this does allow you to changes the appearance of our buildings. Several Grandt Line and Russ Simpson windows and doors will fit Heritage Models products, and two styles of Grandt Line windows can be seen on the second and third stores of the business on the left side of the two building block in PHOTO #4. The windows in the second story of the right hand buildings are Heritage Models’ item #250.

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